WORDS Zeda The Architect
IMAGES James Cochrane courtesy of Copenhagen Fashion Week
When I think of Copenhagen Fashion Week, the first word that always comes to mind is joy. For the past five seasons in a row, deciding whether to attend has never been a question – it’s always been, and always will be, a resounding “yes”. The reason? Pure joy. No matter who I see, which collections debut or what unexpected moments unfold during those five glorious days, I can be assured to leave with renewed inspiration and exuberance
Much to my delight, this season was no exception – across five packed days, an endless stream of runway shows, presentations, panel talks, events and afterparties unfolded against the rainy winter backdrop of Copenhagen’s streets. The city pulsed with creative energy as designers, editors, buyers and fashion lovers from far and wide braved the cold to celebrate the ever-evolving landscape of Scandi style.
But, beneath the usual joyous exterior, a vibe shift was undeniable. Many designers leaned into introspection, using their collections to reflect on the changing times– some questioned fashion’s role in an increasingly uncertain world, while others explored sustainability beyond surface-level statements, challenging the city’s international guests to think purposefully.
Yet, even among the altered mood, joy remained at the heart of it all. From a show staged in a museum five hours outside of Copenhagen, to presentations urging attendees to slow down and stay grounded, the week was filled with moments that provoked thought while still celebrating creativity. Some brands even took a stand with bold political statements calling out global leaders, proving once again that fashion is never just about clothes – it’s a cultural force.
Through it all, Copenhagen Fashion Week has continued to cement itself as one of the most exciting and progressive global fashion events, always looking forward while staying true to its spirit.
Below, see more of the standout runway moments from CPHFW AW25.
Alectra Rothschild / Masculina
Alectra Rothschild’s runway is an oft-favourite occasion for BRICKS’ regular CPHFW attendees every season, and it’s clear to understand why. The brand has cemented itself as a show to not be missed and guests were thrilled to be in attendance for its latest offering, ‘Give the Girl a Gun’. Not one to shy away from being on the nose, the brand began its runway with a clear message, “F*CK TRUMP”. The following runway show played out as a response to the returning President’s barbaric hate-fuelled campaigns against queer communities, notably trans people. Performance artist Cassie Augusta Jørgensen set the pace for the show, a unique tactic, while we all held our breaths in anticipation. The next thing you knew, it was lights, camera, action and the LEWKS came tumbling out…you didn’t know where to look but every glance was enthralling. The week started with a bang and Masculina remained at the forefront of everyone’s minds ever since.
Stine Goya
There are few brands fashion lovers would willingly extend their five-day trip and embark on a 10-hour round journey for, but Stine Goya has firmly secured its place on that list. So, why did I make the trek? This season, Goya’s runway show was set against the stunning backdrop of the Kunsten Museum of Modern Art in Aalborg, nestled within an exhibition curated by the designer herself.
Titled ‘If You See What I See’, a pink-hued carefully selected curation from the museum’s 4,000-piece collection provided a dreamy backdrop for the fashion-art fusion showgoers to experience. As the models gracefully meandered through the museum, draped in quintessential Stine Goya florals, the collection unfolded like a living, breathing work of art. Every piece was a feast for the eyes, a vibrant reminder of the ever-present feeling of joy that has defined this season but also the brand. Flower motifs were woven throughout the collection in fresh and unexpected ways. A silk shift dress bloomed with delicate, hand-painted florals here, then painted petals across cheekbones here, just like living accessories, blurring the line between fashion and art.
An ever-present synergy between colour, texture and movement brought an undeniable energy to the space, reinforcing Stine Goya’s ability to turn the everyday into something extraordinary. As the final show of the week, it offered a much-needed moment of serenity, closing out the hectic schedule with a sense of calm and reflection. Next season, wherever they want to go, I’ll be there.
STAMM
Elisabet Stamm’s AW25 presentation led the vibe-change charge by trading her high-energy runway for a zen garden, presenting a focused, passion-driven collection that directly asks her attendees to reflect on the world around them.
When you think of STAMM, oversized streetwear, colour and attitude come to mind. This season, the brand steered towards storytelling while never forgetting its DNA. Entitled ‘100p PASSION’, the collection showcased designs against a whimsical backdrop with the models wearing Tabi Footwear immersed in mud. Pared-down silhouettes, distressed denim and Stamm’s signature puffer jackets were featured on models’ bodies but also as installations, as models and attendees alike took their time to enjoy the brief respite from the week’s fast-paced nature. My understanding and takeaway is that we are being urged to stay grounded and not to lose our inner tranquillity.
With live performances from a drummer and a writer, the presentation underscores Stamm’s unwavering commitment to creativity, stripped back but still all-in. The show truly embodied a new, more considered direction for the brand and I can’t wait to see STAMM’s next offering.
Bonnetje
A brand known for its masterful sustainable stylings, Bonnetje’s AW25 collection was no exception. As a newcomer on my radar – and as someone who loves a good suit – I was curious to see how it would reimagine its design language for a full-scale runway show. Safe to say, they delivered (and, as the kids say, ate it up).
Helmed by Anna Myntekær and Yoko Maja Rahbek, the Copenhagen-based brand made its inspiration clear: office-core, but dialed up to dangerously sexy levels. Standouts included signature suiting upcycled into a twisted take on the nine-to-five grind. Forget stiff blazers and sensible slacks, Bonnetje’s officewear comes with bum cleavage, suggestive cutouts and deconstructed tailoring that blurs the lines between power, authority and seduction.
For a first-time runway, the vision was crystal clear, proving that the only way from here is up. And from what I’ve seen, I’m fully on board with Bonnetje’s take on officewear: disruptive, irreverent, and anything but business as usual.
MUNTHE
What stood out about the Munthe show was how effortlessly wearable and adaptable the collection was – each look could have stepped straight from the runway onto the streets, and the look wouldn’t be amiss in any ‘best dressed’ round-ups. This season, Munthe embraced 1970s academia with a sporty, metropolitan edge and it delivered. Creative Director, Naja Munthe, explained: “The collection balances refined tailoring with effortless femininity and a touch of boyish charm, creating a confident, vintage-inspired look.”
The collection thrived on contrasts: faux fur coats met sleek corduroy, slim scarves added nostalgic charm and bold zebra prints brought playful sophistication. Accessories took centre stage with the debut of the LIX bag, alongside the already popular LAVILLA bag, solidifying Munthe’s growing influence in luxury accessories.
Another win for the Munthe team was thanks to its delicious casting – the show had one of the few most body-diverse lineups of the season, which was a stark step away from the norm for CPHFW. A win is a win and this one deserves to be celebrated.
Fine Chaos
A brand not afraid to be different, Fine Chaos has shown how it always pays to play to the beat of your own drum. This AW25 season was where it doubled down on its apocalyptic aesthetic, delivering a collection titled ‘Ataraxis’ that was equal parts chaos and catharsis.
Inspired by Greek etymology, with a reference to finding peace before war, the collection imagined a world in ruin where hope emerges in unexpected ways. Staged in a moody, industrial arena, the show throbbed with hypnotic beats, heightening the sense of eerie resilience. Among the theatrics, the brand’s voice remains at the heart of the collection, carefully balancing between restriction and release, survival and self-expression.
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