WORDS Benjamin Park
IMAGERY Tally Francis
The British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative stands as a testament to the transformative power of fashion’s most celebrated incubator program. Marking its 30th anniversary this year, this illustrious endeavour has left an indelible mark on modern fashion, nurturing and championing emerging designers in the UK.
The success stories that have emerged from NEWGEN are nothing short of legendary, with luminaries like Jonathan Anderson, Kim Jones, and Alexander McQueen among its alumni. The program has also lent its support to a new wave of exceptional talents including Chet Lo, Conner Ives, Yuhan Wang, and Tolu Coker, to name but a few. Since its inception in 1993, over 300 designers embarking on their careers have received invaluable support from NEWGEN. That number continues to swell with each passing year. It’s indeed challenging to find a brand on the London Fashion Week schedule that hasn’t benefited from the incredible initiative.
BFC CEO Caroline Rush encapsulates NEWGEN’s essence when she states, “We are focused on creating an environment for creative and innovative businesses to succeed, and continue to nurture socially responsive and dynamic designers at the zeitgeist of British culture.” NEWGEN’s mission revolves around keeping British fashion fresh, youthful, and undeniably sexy – a torch ignited by industry titans Vivienne Westwood, Ossie Clark and Mary Quant, and fervently carried forward by the BFC through NEWGEN.
A year-long celebration has unfolded to mark this landmark anniversary, culminating in the breathtaking REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion exhibition at the Design Museum and the NEWGEN show space during London Fashion Week. Both events serve as powerful showcases of the program’s immense influence and its impact on the designers it nurtures.
Two words reverberate in every conversation about NEWGEN: Sarah Mower. This formidable and unwaveringly dedicated yet approachable Vogue critic is the guest curator of the REBEL exhibition and the BFC Ambassador for emerging talent. Mower played a pivotal role in founding NEWGEN and has been its guiding force ever since. Ask any designer who has been part of NEWGEN, and you’ll find it hard to locate one who doesn’t credit Mower for her tireless contributions to British fashion and talent. Chet Lo attests, “[Mower] is just so inspiring, even a short five-minute conversation with her helps…she has so many nuggets of wisdom.”
NEWGEN is more than just a casual endorsement from the British Fashion Council; it delves much deeper. For the fortunate recipients, it translates into education, grants, business mentoring, and a prestigious show space for debuting their collections on the official London Fashion Week schedule. In an industry dominated by fleeting trends and social media shock value, one of the most significant challenges for designers is the longevity of their brands. NEWGEN provides the essential infrastructure for these brands to thrive in the cutthroat fashion economy of our times.
The BFC provided so many extra events and meetings, crucial things like lawyers and accountants… when you do a creative degree, no one teaches you how to run a business; NEWGEN teaches you this.
Helen Kirkum
Sustainable accessories designer and NEWGEN recipient Helen Kirkum emphasizes, “The BFC provided so many extra events and meetings, crucial things like lawyers and accountants… when you do a creative degree, no one teaches you how to run a business; NEWGEN teaches you this.” This commitment to longevity is best exemplified by the success of Lee McQueen, whose journey through the program paved the way for the brand’s ongoing support. Sarah Burton, formerly the Creative Director of Alexander McQueen, and a consistent advocate for NEWGEN through the brand, remarks, “[Alexander McQueen] has always been passionate about supporting creativity and encouraging new talent. The fact that Lee was the first recipient of this award makes this celebration even more significant to us.”
Chet Lo, Helen Kirkum, and Tolu Coker represent the spectrum of talent fostered by NEWGEN. Lo, a Central Saint Martins graduate, has taken the fashion world by storm with his iconic ‘durian’ knitwear. Since joining NEWGEN, Lo has successfully expanded his eponymous brand, offering everything from menswear and womenswear to accessories. His aesthetic, rooted in his Chinese heritage, has garnered acclaim from celebrities like Doja Cat, Dua Lipa, and Christina Aguilera. Lo highlights, “The BFC includes us in so many different projects that otherwise we wouldn’t have, which is a real whirlwind and change in my career trajectory…the big project I just did with Smart Water was brought to us by the BFC with Zendaya as the campaign star.” Lo underscores the crucial role NEWGEN plays in navigating the intricacies of the fashion business, stating, “Growing has been interesting, learning what your demographic likes to wear and understanding your consumer base is very interesting.”
Helen Kirkum, a remarkably creative accessories designer primarily known for her shoes, has expanded her repertoire to include cult-favourite bags this season. Kirkum’s work takes sustainability to a whole new level, aligning with NEWGEN’s commitment to environmentally-conscious fashion. She observes, “The Institute of Positive Fashion and the sustainable initiatives NEWGEN provides are instrumental.” Kirkum also points out the camaraderie that NEWGEN fosters, saying, “When you meet everyone else on NEWGEN, you feel like you have this crew who really support each other.” These interpersonal connections are vital for the future success of brands in an industry built on friendship and connections. Kirkum adds, “One of the main things for me was the validation NEWGEN provided; I felt like I was accepted and allowed to do things my way which really helped me build my business.” This validation is a cornerstone of brand integrity, essential for sustainable growth in an ever-uncertain economic climate.
Tolu Coker, the eponymous designer who recently showcased her widely acclaimed debut show in the NEWGEN show space, follows in the footsteps of incredible Black, female talent spearheaded by the incubator. Coker echoes the sentiments of her fellow NEWGEN recipients, highlighting how the program fosters both creative and business growth. She remarks, “The art of fashion and the business of fashion, you’re helped with both.” The BFC’s touch continues to be golden even in its 30th year. Coker also underscores the groundbreaking work of the program in embracing and supporting the unique perspectives of designers, exemplified by the diverse backgrounds and creative identities of the 300 recipients. She states, “That’s the beauty of being able to celebrate being in these spaces, exploring what’s my unique viewpoint or story.”
From championing diversity and inclusion in the industry to ensuring the recipients are prepared to compete in a global fashion market, the BFC consistently pushes the boundaries of the status quo and embraces change – an essential stance in a post-Brexit, recession-fearing world.
Benjamin Park
The future of British fashion remains at the forefront of NEWGEN’s concerns. From championing diversity and inclusion in the industry to ensuring the recipients are prepared to compete in a global fashion market, the BFC consistently pushes the boundaries of the status quo and embraces change – an essential stance in a post-Brexit, recession-fearing world. Iconic stylist and key member of the diversity and inclusion committee, Karen Binns, states, “My involvement in diversity and inclusion work within the program has been vital. I’m able to steer the council in the right direction because I’ve been that black woman in the industry.” Tolu Coker reiterates, “That’s the beauty of being able to celebrate being in these spaces, exploring what’s my unique viewpoint or story.” In terms of future-proofing, NEWGEN equips designers not only to survive but to thrive in a global fashion market. Chet Lo observes, “With social media, it’s hard to stand out in a sea of other designers and brands, so it’s very lucky to have the BFC’s support.”
In commemorating the 30th anniversary of the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative, we delve into a realm where fashion meets transformation. NEWGEN, the cradle of modern British fashion, has elevated emerging designers to legendary status. Its illustrious alumni, including Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard, and Charles Jeffrey, attest to its enduring influence.
More than mere endorsement, it’s a holistic incubator providing education, grants, mentorship, and a prestigious spot on the London Fashion Week schedule. It equips designers with the essential tools for navigating the competitive fashion landscape and thriving in a world obsessed with trends and social media. The program nurtures both the creative and business facets of fashion. As Lo aptly puts it, NEWGEN’s opportunities are a whirlwind, allowing designers to explore and understand their consumer base. Helen Kirkum emphasizes the program’s validation and acceptance, pivotal for brand integrity and growth.
Coker adds her voice to the chorus, underscoring the dual nurturing of art and business. NEWGEN shapes a future where diversity, inclusion, and sustainability are paramount. The program propels designers to succeed on a global stage, critical in a post-Brexit, recession-tinted world.
As NEWGEN celebrates three decades of excellence, it remains a guiding light for fashion’s future. It ensures that innovation thrives in diversity and creativity. This program is not just about marking its past but also embracing a future where British fashion shines as a bastion of innovation and diversity. NEWGEN’s legacy continues, promising a vibrant and compelling fashion scene for generations to come.
The REBEL: 30 Years of London Fashion exhibition is on at The Design Museum until 11th February 2024.
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