PHOTOGRAPHY Emily Bloomer
In an industry where diversity often falls short of true inclusivity, talent agency Zebedee is uniquely redefining beauty standards by championing disabled, gender non-conforming, and elderly models and actors.
Their latest project, shot in collaboration with sustainable swimwear brand youswim, is a powerful testament to their unwavering commitment to promoting body positivity and embracing all aspects of the human form, celebrating unconstrained diversity and pushing for a more inclusive and representative fashion industry.
Zebedee Co-founders Laura Winson and Zoe Proctor have worked tirelessly since the agency’s inception in 2017 to make disability, age, pregnancy and gender identity part of the diversity conversation in fashion, as they continue to grow working with some of the world’s most established brands – including Gucci, Burberry, Mercedes, Vogue, Estee Lauder, Disney, The BBC, and HBO. We caught up with some of their models to discuss how the fashion industry can do better when it comes to inclusion, both in front and behind the camera.
Lauren, 31
How can the fashion industry, modelling in particular, be more inclusive?
I think we’ve come a long way with inclusivity within the industry, but we can both acknowledge how far we’ve come and how far we have to go. I personally feel we’ve reached a better level of equality for disabled models but not equity. Yes, disabled models want to be treated and invited to work the same as non-disabled models (equality), but in many ways that ignores the many barriers put in our way to even get ourselves in the room for castings or jobs. I think better inclusivity for disabled models would be an equitable approach which allowed disabled models to, for example, attend castings virtually because travel is more difficult or provide access riders for jobs which take into account and support different access needs.
Lindy, 68
Can you tell us about a time you felt seen or heard while working in the creative industry?
I was working on a production with a fabulous company and was asked about my access needs in advance. I wear hearing aids, and when I turned up on set, I found that everyone in the film studio knew and they had bought clear face masks especially – this was during the pandemic – so that I could see their lips.
Kristal, 36
What should production be mindful of when working on set?
As a disabled model, I don’t know how much energy I’ll have when I get to set so I spend a lot of time planning and conserving energy. It would be really helpful if clients and teams could be flexible enough to work with their models to gauge what can be done efficiently and effectively. As disabilities vary so widely, it’s really important to work with the model as an individual not just as a ‘stand-in’.
Natalie, 35
What change do you hope to see in the future of fashion?
I hope I see people with physical differences on the front pages of highly respected fashion magazines and working with luxury brands. The ultimate goal for the future should be seeing models with differences in fashion weeks all across the world strutting their stuff on the runway regardless of how they look or present.
Caitlin, 31
What change do you hope to see in the future of fashion?
I personally would like to see more disabled talent not only in front of, but also behind the camera. There would be such an incredible impact on the industry if more opportunities were given to disabled artists, designers, photographers and crew. A diverse and inclusive team always leads to better creative outcomes.
Sian, 34
How can the fashion industry, modelling in particular, be more inclusive?
I think the fashion industry can be more inclusive by not only using disabled models, but also by repeatedly booking disabled models. I’ve seen a few brands use models with disabilities to claim they are inclusive, and that’s it. It shouldn’t be a one-time thing – the industry and brands need to continue to want to be inclusive to show others that it can work.
Danielea, 37
Can you tell us about a time you felt seen or heard while working in the creative industry?
A positive example of an on-set experience was during a shoot where the hair stylist had taken the time to ask questions about alopecia and its unique challenges. The hairstylist went on to ask me if I wanted a head massage. She said she was doing everyone else’s hair and wanted to include me. I didn’t expect her to at all and it came as a very welcomed surprise. First time for everything. The thought alone made me feel valued and respected as a model and as an individual.
Enjoyed this story? Help keep independent queer-led publishing alive and unlock the BRICKS Learner Platform, full of resources for emerging and aspiring creatives sent to you every week via newsletter. Start your 30-day free trial now.