WORDS Brett Staniland
HEADER IMAGE Courtesy of Paul Smith
AURALEE
On the first day of Paris Men’s, AuraLee showed us how to look effortlessly stylish, even on dry cleaning day. Warmth takes priority in Paris this week as temperatures drop, but the offering from AuraLee made the point of being versatile, comfortable, utilitarian and stylish. Fabrics and textiles have sophisticated character – British wool and voluminous alpaca create a tweed for softly tailored garments which are lightweight, insulating and resilient. The collection represents the unique suspense between daily activities that split the day.
Looks were styled with dry cleaning bags and office passes, showing us an on-duty look can be as cool as off-duty, playing away with the office rules of dressing. Asymmetrical collars, hoodies draped over check suits, ties skewed off-centre and half-unzipped bags with belongings spilling out added an intentional sloppiness but provided another layer of cool which represents the reality of how we may end up leaving the house. Running errands can be the runway moments for us all, and the way AuraLee plays with the formality and rules of clothing shows us we should take pride in spending time getting dressed, to look like we spent no time at all.
LGN
Louis Gabriel Nouchi’s shows have fast become one of the buzziest of the season, creating a grungy, underground feeling of nostalgia whilst producing some of the finest tailoring in Paris. The cold, eerie concrete location was brightly lit as the first looks came with a powerful grunt and speed. The first 12 looks were all black and dramatic, playing with silhouette, fabrics and skin exposures. The first, a black shirt and tie belted tightly into an ankle-length trench coat with the double-shoulder signature from Nouchi. White knee-high socks and shorts followed with a dramatic double-breasted suit jacket again with the shoulders and tight waist.
Casting has always been a strong point of Nouchi too, showing us his flare on larger bodies, shorter bodies and fluid expressions. It’s sexy, but not always in an obvious way like he has done before. Bare-chested, relaxed suiting and self-assured expressions gave us a nod of know-how, followed swiftly by a leather tie swaying in front of a six-pack and boxer shorts with an overcoat framing the LGN golden coins. It’s a big year for Nouchi, following his ANDAM grand prize win and mentorship from Chloe’s CEO, there are a lot of people rooting for him to follow in the footsteps of previous winners, like Marine Serre, and Christophe Lemaire.
PAUL SMITH
“The good thing is, when you take it all apart and lay it on the floor, there’s something for everyone,” says Paul Smith after his AW24 show, which he says will all be made and available to buy. He’s right – while the show looks and feels like the high-end runway staple Paris respects and admires, the clothes are still extremely wearable and joyful, as they should be. “There are lots of clothes out there for a fashion show but not for the way people are and the way we all live,” he continues.
Smith played around with textures and tones, having nylon trousers we typically see in Jackets and other “dry” fabrics populating the looks. Ties are definitely back – Smith added these in with monochrome shirts, and more casual outerwear, but skipped a tie altogether for the shawl lapel forest green tux, pairing it with a polo shirt, again making a casual scene out of usually a serious occasion. Scarves were draped from the nape, flowing playfully behind a smarter front. As is always the case with Smith, it’s a party at the front and business at the back, and he appeared full of energy to party come the finale.
OFFICINE GENERALE
Creative director Pierre Maheo wrote us a letter in his show notes for the AW24 Officine Generale show. Telling us that “Paris will always be Paris…” despite his travels around the world visiting his stores. The label’s global expansion is a marker of its growing success – opening its 4th store in the US and solidifying a strong fan base in Asia – capturing an audience with the stylish essence of elegant silhouettes, impeccable fabrics and tonal layering without ever feeling bored.
Accessories helped add a casual edge to the formal attire; shopping bags accompanied shoulder bags in the same ensemble. Thin leather belts cinched waists to pin silhouettes and add a shiny piece of hardware, while scarfs draped over sharp tailoring softened looks and added an approachable nature. Shirts protruding through knits and blazers allowed us to feel like these clothes can be lived in the day-to-day – they’re not smart-casual, but certainly comfortable, despite there being more formal wardrobe staples. There’s no doubt that the Officine Generale aesthetic is smart and polished but the clothes all appear relaxed and effortless with the added panache we’ve come to expect over the last decade.
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Brett Staniland
Brett is a sustainable fashion campaigner, model and content creator.