PHOTOGRAPHY Fifi Newbery
With thanks to AP Communications
For AW24, Bora Aksu was inspired by a trip to Hamburg to visit the home of sculptor Eva Hesse. The artist is known as a pioneer of postminimalism, utilising materials such as latex, fibreglass, and plastic, and this influence was evident in the garments’ form and volume, pairing wide sleeves and flowing skirts with finely tailored bodices and masculine jackets.
Aksu also played with materiality, using soft, hand-knitted mohair for girlish dresses, jacket adornments and delicate bonnets in blush and beige. The designer is mindful of the impact of his creations on the natural world, and utilises deadstock fabrics throughout his designs.
However, Aksu was also inspired by the difficulties Hesse faced throughout her life – having fled Nazi Germany as a young child and facing an untimely death at the age of 34 – and her ability to transform negative experiences and emotions into joyful and often whimsical pieces of art. The postminimalist method of expression through the means of materials and methods, rather than story and symbolism, encouraged Aksu to create a collection that exploits the paradoxical nature of trauma processing – finding the brightest joy in the darkest moments and celebrating the purest beauty amid the most vivid horrors.
It’s an apt message for the season, as the fashion industry is desperately seeking beauty and creativity as escapism while also attempting not to be ignorant of the atrocities being faced around the world right now. The AW24 collection reflects both Hesse and Aksu’s ability to process trauma through material exploration, celebrating life’s small moments amidst outside turmoil.
Below, see more images from backstage at Bora Aksu AW24.
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