WORDS Hunter Shires
PHOTOGRAPHY Nico Daniels
CREATIVE DIRECTION Hunter Shires and Jon Alexander
STLYING Alyssa Mosley
MUA Amelia Jackie
HAIR Carolyn Riley
Nicolas Di Felice, the creative director of Courrèges, hailed a cab on the bustling streets of Paris while sharing his remarkable journey for the infamous 1960’s fashion house. In just three years at the brand, Nicolas has transformed the space-age sixties house into a modern epitome of effortless luxury, vinyl, and cutting-edge designs that will last a lifetime.
His professional background includes working under renowned fashion figures such as Raf Simons at Dior and Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton, showcasing an impressive resume rubbing shoulders with some of the greatest talents of our generation. Nicolas’s foray into the realm of fashion unfolded as uniquely as the brand he now directs – with his exceptional love of music. His fascination peaked while watching a Belgian music television show during his formative years, particularly fixated with the distinctive attire worn by the bands. This connection to music set the stage for our recently acquainted kinship, as I was dragged into the abandoned mansion of Courrèges’ Spring 2024 afterparty in the 19th arrondissement by the man himself.
Fashion, for Nicolas, transcends garments; it’s a narrative shaping the individual and collective identities. When asked about Courrèges’ impact on personal expression, he remarked in his thick accent, “Courrèges, under my stewardship, caters to a broad spectrum. Courrèges embodies a unique fusion of ages: from 20 year olds all the way to people in their 60s.” Despite being relatively early in his tenure, Nicolas’s pieces speak directly to his intended audience. Truly a brand built for the phrase “those who get it, get it.”
The culture of fashion moves far beyond just the garments themselves. Despite the buzz surrounding Courrèges’ fashion week afterparties, Nicolas remains grounded in his design process, cutting and draping clothing based on where his mind goes. This commitment to craftsmanship shines through in his description of what he loves most about his clothing: “You can wear our pieces from day to night. You don’t have to go home and change before you go out.” A true New York miracle, as living in Brooklyn has hindered my clothing choices when impromptu plans become enduring marathons. Nicolas has been working more with adjustable zippers – expertly showcased in most of the final ten looks of the Spring/Summer 2024 show – as it gives consumers control over how much skin they want to show and when they want to show it. Heading from work to a first date? Well, it seems you found the brand for you; from being in front of your boss to the man of your dreams, all within a few quick adjustments.
Amidst the seemingly ever-changing times of fashion’s landscape, I was keen to hear where he envisions design going in the new age. What matters and what doesn’t? He says, “I really like to be honest with myself and focus on what brings me joy. While some brands shift their design drastically every season, from Morocco to the Arctic polar, I’m drawn to designers who evolve and grow every season, like Rick Owens and even Andre Courrèges.” In the perpetually evolving realm of French fashion, discerning the core intentions of its designers has become more and more challenging. Nicolas, however, dedicates significant effort to his sets, sounds, parties, and stores, utilizing them as avenues to convey a cohesive message and to create a distinct voice while shaping the brand anew with each season’s jaw dropping clothes.
Intrigued by close circles and the array of yes-men in the fashion industry, my curiosity sparked on who Nicolas calls for honesty. The humble designer credits his studio’s open-door policy stating that, “I ask everyone; from the people who worked with me at Balenciaga to the newest intern.”
Before his recent fragrance launch, he did tours of all the floors in the Courrèges offices, spraying one perfume on each shoulder of the individual’s working – one on their left and one on their right. If 10 people like the left, and 12 people like the right one, they will go with the right one. “I’ve never been a designer who shows a sketch and produces it exactly based on the drawing,” he explains. “I’m there everyday in the studio asking around, so it’s something that we all do together as a team.”
Before a show, I see a 2 second flash of what the next collection will look like where I get a glimpse of every element – the music, what the show looks like, and the vibe of the clothes.
Nicolas Di Felice
Besides its history of exceptional garment making, Courrèges has fast grown a reputation for its distinctive visual language under Nicolas’s direction. Campaign imagery exudes expressive movement and human connection, eschewing posed aesthetics for narratives full of feeling. He envisions a togetherness that transcends fashion, manifesting in intimate moments at parties where diverse individuals dance to one shared beat. “At the end of the day, I want everyone to be together,” Nicolas exclaims. Nicolas’s commitment to fostering collective experiences extends from his professional vision to the personal sphere, creating a beautiful tapestry of unity within all aspects of his life. When he starts a great film, he insists on turning it off because he wants to wait to be with someone to share it with.
His profound empathy for human connection extends far beyond the closing credits of outstanding cinema. Upon questioning where he goes to seek pleasure, Nicolas chuckles, “Wherever my friends are,” highlighting the depth of his appreciation for mutual memories. He actively nurtures these connections, exemplified by his weekly Sunday gatherings for drinks in his Parisian home, creating a haven for friendship and camaraderie.
The same care and consideration can be seen in the groundbreaking set designs crafted for the brand’s catwalks. Most recently, the runway for the SS24 show was punctured by models fiercely strutting down a fragile breakaway floor, all wearing pairs of $1,000 heels. Where does Nicolas’s mind go to think when he is creating these complex atmospheres? His own dreams, where creativity and innovation intertwine to shape the immersive worlds he wishes to exist in. “Before a show, I see a 2 second flash of what the next collection will look like where I get a glimpse of every element – the music, what the show looks like, and the vibe of the clothes,” he remarks. Once the vision has appeared to him, he and his team tirelessly work over the next 3 months to make it come to life.
The SS24 collection’s colours were as airy as the sounds that kicked off the show, with a gust of wind lightly flooding our eardrums as the first model walked out in a white asymmetrical collared dress. The audience quickly noted that black and white tones would be nurturing the simplistic daydream of everyday wear, a growing staple among Nicolas’s work. My standout moment was the impeccably tailored black croc pants, cut to the knee and featuring the aforementioned modifiable zippers. The added flare at the bottom crafted an impactful silhouette, elegantly paired with open square-toed shoes and metallic curved heels.
I tend to think that when a piece is well worn, everything can work – even the most ugly stuff. When you wear it well, it can always charm me one way or another.
Nicolas Di Felice
Reflecting on the transient nature of the fashion industry, Nicolas acknowledges the uncertainties of the revolving-door of designers at fashion houses. Staying relevant is challenging, and he advocates for giving designers the time they need to flourish by stating: “If you have to be out, you’ll be out within the 3 years.”
The game of musical chairs doesn’t just stop at the role of artistic director – with rampant trend chasing from a new generation of terminally-online consumers, it seems like today’s designers are relentless in their pursuit of the next big product. I was eager to hear his thoughts on the multiplication of similar items on the runway, on magazine covers, and in popular culture. Does he think trends are bringing us together or tearing us apart? He sighs, stating his dislike for reproducing commercial items as it comes across as if the collection is made by the merchandiser themselves. As we see designers in this new age flock to hot brands such as Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta to sell replica pieces, it’s great to see designers like Nicolas hold true to their own design process and creativity. On the horizon, Nicolas will be the guest creative director of this coming season’s Jean Paul Gaultier Couturier house. A collaboration I can safely say we cannot wait to see, what lies in store for his take on the brand is yet to be written.
When asked if he has any fashion icks, he remarked, “I tend to think that when a piece is well worn, everything can work – even the most ugly stuff. When you wear it well, it can always charm me one way or another.” He says nothing is off limits when it comes to style; the way you wear an item can shift the publics’ perception of what is good and bad.
His aspirations extend far beyond fashion – he tells me he envisions opening a venue for concerts and events in the future, a space where people can bond and share experiences with their loved ones. Nicolas, who once dreamed of Courrèges, now longs for healthy growth, a family, and protecting his most valuable relationships.
There are lessons that can be learned from Nicolas – it is crucial to be deliberate in our choices regarding how we allocate our time and with whom we choose to spend it. The sincere designer exemplifies the importance of embodying traits that contribute to shaping one’s authentic self, all while expressing individuality through the choice of clothing. On a personal level, Nicolas has the unique ability to make everyone he speaks with feel beautiful just by being who they are. His tender voice, the compassion coming out with every breath – the Belgian designer lives life in ways others could only aspire. Amongst the stuffiness, name games and the all-too-often similar perspectives in Paris, Nicolas is a breath of fresh air. An endless waterfall of open thoughts, and I cannot wait to see what’s in store for his future at Courrèges.
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