While slipping into something latex is often-times associated with dark and sweaty sex clubs, dominatrix cat-suits, and queer pop star’s wardrobes, 28-year-old Gemma Pickerill launched Soft Skin Latex as a way to expose a softer, more feminine side to fetishwear. “We don’t mass produce and we don’t follow trends,” the Cheshire-born designer explains. In fact, each one of Soft Skin’s pieces – made to order from Pickerill’s London studio – showcase the designer’s unique POV on fetishwear, from rubbery hoods to translucent bow bags, tailored raincoats, and mediaeval ruffle collars.
That’s not to say, however, that the label doesn’t pay tribute to latex and fetishwear’s important history within queer fashion and culture. “Fetishism is not just an aesthetic or fashion trend to me, it’s a subculture and a community and I always want to respect that,” Pickerill assures in a 2021 interview, explaining how – after landing an internship at a latex brand in 2017 – she became fascinated with the material, incorporating latex into her own designs and joining in on the fetishwear subculture, herself.
Now – besides covering gay icons like Brooke Candy, Shygirl, Sasha Velour, and Lisa Rinna in head-to-toe latex – the label has also collabed with the Tom of Finland Foundation, plastering the legendary queer erotic artist’s “Lick” drawing onto a slinky, completely see-through latex top and donating a portion of the profits to the charity which helps preserves of the artist’s archive and legacy.
Plus – with Soft Skin Latex’s slimy Brat green bags, sweaty sheer tops, frilly bra tops, and ultra-mini skirts – the label’s offering is sure to be seen on a handful of people at Charli XCX and Troye Sivan’s upcoming summer tour dates (yes, latex is in for Brat summer, of course). Below, we speak to Pickerill about finding her niche within latex and fetishwear, the changes she’d like to see within the fashion industry, and her favourite dominatrix-run podcast.
Hi Gemma! How would you describe your label and aesthetic in your own words?
Gemma Pickerill: A soft and playful latex fantasy.
What’s one piece you’ve made that you feel summarises your label, and why?
GP: I think our hoods! The small mouth hole and heart shaped face trimmed with a frill are recognisable and distinct to Soft Skin. I like to combine the visceral quality of latex with softness and femininity; the hoods are a good example of this – [it’s] my take on a fetishwear staple.
What first drew your interest in making fetishwear-inspired pieces?
GP: My introduction to the fetish world was through an internship with a latex brand in 2017. At the time I was interested in subculture style and theatrical costume more so than fashion design, so it made sense that fetishwear appealed to me. I immediately enjoyed the process of making latex clothing and found the culture surrounding it exciting too. I enjoy making clothes which take you into a fantasy and provide an escape from the mundane every day.
Can you describe your design process? How has working with latex influenced your creative process?
GP: I look at a lot of fetish imagery for research, like photos and illustrations from old magazines, as well as historical clothing – sometimes buying vintage pieces, taking patterns from those, and adapting them to be used with latex. I usually quickly sketch out an idea first and then go straight into making – changing the design as I go along depending on what works best for the material.
I enjoy making clothes which take you into a fantasy and provide an escape from the mundane every day.
What barriers or challenges, if any, have you experienced in accessing the industry?
GP: I think because I’ve chosen to specialise in something niche, there is less competition and fewer barriers than in the mainstream fashion industry. When I started making my own pieces, I was working for another brand and had a bar job so it was difficult to make much progress – eventually, I made the decision to move out of London so I could put more time, energy, and money into my own work.
For the first four years of Soft Skin I was doing everything myself, so – as the brand grew – I became pretty overworked and burnt out, and even after employing people, it took some time to recover from this and get on top of the workload.
What changes would you like to see, if any, in the fashion industry right now, and how is your brand contributing to this?
GP: An end to fast fashion, exploitation, and overconsumption. I’d like to see more of an emphasis on skill, craftsmanship, and community. These are the values behind Soft Skin.
What’s one piece of advice you would tell other emerging designers getting started in the fashion industry right now?
GP: Draw inspiration from your own personal experiences and interests rather than what you think will be popular. Find your niche!
What are you blasting on repeat while you’re working in your studio?
GP: The #teakink podcast by Eva Oh, where she talks about her experiences as a professional dominatrix ([it’s] very on brand haha!). [I also] have a playlist which I’m always adding to, so usually whatever is at the top of that – also NTS radio for music.
What’s been the most exciting or memorable moment so far since launching your label?
GP: Launching our collaboration with the Tom of Finland Foundation – it’s been a dream to see the work of such an iconic artist printed onto our designs. We visited the Tom of Finland house in LA and actually got to meet Durk Dehner who originally co-founded the foundation with Tom of Finland himself, everyone there was so kind about our work, it was a pretty special moment for me.
What fictional character would LOVE your label?
GP: I think Elvira would appreciate Soft Skin Latex.
And who IRL would you love to see wearing your designs?
GP: Amanda Lepore would be a dream!
What are your plans for the future?
GP: To make printed latex more of a focus for my brand, and to create some stunning printed pieces.
Soft Skin latex is available to purchase at APOC STORE.
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