Despite only being around for four years, Barcelona-based label ONRUSHW23FH has already landed on its signature style: a layered-up, belted, and pleated mini skirt challenging traditional style codes with its asymmetrical waistline and dystopian, shredded hem. In fact – just last year alone – Julia Fox wore an “ONRUSH” mini on an episode of her Forbidden Fruits podcast, Blackpink’s Lisa wore a red interaction on stage, Madonna’s backup dancers wore matching minis on tour, and Arca performed in New York with a version of the skirt specially designed to represent the trans flag.
“[The skirt] combines some of our DNA bullet points when it comes to design – dressing in haste, contrast, the twirl, and deconstructing, [and] layering,” ONRUSHW23FH’s founders Sebastian Cameras Alvarez and Albert Sánchez Ortiz – who named the label after their joint tendency to hand in uni projects late and the flight code for a plane they missed – tell BRICKS. “The whole concept of it is what we love: putting a twist on daily life garments.”
In fact, the label’s archive is bursting with experimental takes on clothing staples – from big, multi-tiered dresses that hang on the wearer’s body like sculptures to puffer coats blown up to XXL proportions and slinky, stringy dresses. Together, each garnment showcases the design duo’s distinctive balance between old-school tailoring and their unique digital technique of distorting 3D prototypes until they achieve the finished garment.
Today, the label is supported by APOC Store – the new-age fashion marketplace gathering-up and celebrating our next generation of changemaking designers from across the globe. Here, you can find ONRUSHW23FH’s signature shredded mini skirts, twirling jeans, mesh bra-printed tops, and logo graphic tees – all available for purchase from the APOC site and no doubt to be spotted while scrolling across the Instagram feeds of fashion it-girls like Gabbriette and Emma Chamberlain in the coming months.
Ahead of the ONRUSHW23FH’s SS25 collection which drops at PFW next month – we speak to Alvarez and Ortiz below about balancing digital and handmade design, the worst advice they’ve ever gotten, and the changes they’d like to see in the industry.
How would you describe your label in your own words?
ONRUSHW23FH is an experimental, design-focused brand. Our vision merges modern couture techniques with a subtle, dishevelled look through an experimental approach for both menswear and womenswear focused on craftsmanship and deconstruction. We present a distinctive point of view, led by sensuality, using conspicuous volumes and our signature ‘twirled’ silhouettes. With each collection, we build a new world for the audience. We use mesh and lycra, contrasting cleverly tailored denims. We continue to introduce new washings, treatments, and fabric manipulations with every season.
We present a distinctive point of view, led by sensuality, using conspicuous volumes and our signature ‘twirled’ silhouettes.
What are some of the specific inspirations that have influenced your recent designs?
We always try to get influenced by different stuff. When it comes to designing a collection, we gather a bunch of things we are obsessed with at that moment and we start from there – such as architecture, sociologists, and artists. Currently, cinema is something that we are really into right now – although we always try to think and get inspired by issues where society can be reflected, or even ourselves in our current situation.
Can you please describe your design process? Can you tell us a bit about how digital tech plays into your design work?
We always try to mix different ways of getting there because we love to work manually and digitally. The design process begins with a gathering. We compile movies, pictures, words, sounds…whatever inspires us. The cumulation of this gathering process is a massive mood board that acts as an anchor for the collection to bloom around. The process hinges on the use of digital touch – 3D prototypes of toile draped mannequins are modified and distorted until forms emerge.
What barriers or challenges, if any, have you experienced in accessing the industry?
First of all would be money. You realise that [money supports] not only your creative work, designs, and all the behind the scenes work. If you had an investor or more money maybe things [would] have been easier. Although we are proud and happy about our way of making things until now and all the effort behind [them].
Another issue would be production, in terms of finding good sourcing for fabrics, trimmings, and factories that are willing to take small quantities and help with this kind of business. At university they don’t prepare you to build a business out of this career.
At university they don’t prepare you to build a business out of this career.
What changes would you like to see, if any, in the fashion industry right now, and how is your brand contributing to this?
We would like to get more support [for] small or emerging designers, although we feel like there’s already things moving on towards this. It’s really nice that we also have platforms like APOC where they support these kinds of brands and designers. We also try to keep [sustainability] in mind from the beginning – not that we are a 100 per cent sustainable brand, but it is something that we have tried to keep in mind since the beginning. Also, not mass-producing, that’s why we have a lot of made to order pieces too – all our production is local.
What’s the best and worst advice you’ve ever been given about fashion or design?
“If you work hard you’ll make it.” This for us would be lies, since in fashion you are always depending on different stuff, and it’s a really competitive world. It’s kind of tricky to move forward since everyday you are facing new issues as a small business. Of course, we work hard and we put a lot of effort into our brand, but sometimes it feels like it’s not enough.
What are you blasting on repeat while you’re working in your studio?
Since we both have really different backgrounds and we like to be in varying moods depending on the day, we always like to be stimulated by different vibes. Maybe we can go from Brat to Grupo Niche, Omar Apollo, Shygirl, The Strokes, and Lana Del Rey. In terms of podcasts, maybe something fun such as I’m Grand Mam or something to chill ourselves like a Spanish one that talks about mental health called Entiende Tu Mente.
What’s your weirdest or wildest fashion obsession right now?
Sequins.
What fictional character would LOVE your label?
I think Angelina Jolie as Lara Croft or Padmé Amidala.
And who IRL would you love to see wearing your designs?
Definitely Chloe Sevigny or Penélope Cruz.
What are your plans for the future?
We are presenting a new collection during PFW at the end of September for SS25. Our plans are to present two collections each year, and improve our brand structure for now. We’d also like to develop new product ranges for ONRUSH, such as shoes, knitwear, and swimwear – but get the brand growing step by step. We would love to do a physical show since we’ve always presented our past collections digitally.
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