PHOTOGRAPHY Leah Davies
After taking on two Fashion East residencies and gaining the support of Dolce & Gabbana in Milan, Karoline Vitto marks her first solo collection inspired by Brazil’s annual Iemanjá festival, which sees locals sink flowers into the shoreline as an offering to the goddess of the sea.
Undertide is set against the tempestuous backdrop of Rio’s Copacabana Beach, encapsulating the strength and resilience of womanhood as her models appear as modern-day goddesses emerging from the storm. With a casting that featured 21 curve models and one straight-sized, the show pushed the boundaries of fashion by authentically catering to plus-sized individuals.
The collection refines her hallmark techniques, from her signature draped dresses to her innovative use of fabric and structure. The draping – fluid yet precise – caresses the body, offering sensual glimpses while maintaining a sense of protection and empowerment. Floor-length maxi skirts ripple like the ocean itself, trailing gracefully as models glide down the runway. Bodysuits, a key element of Vitto’s summer offerings, expand on her previous designs, with straps that criss-cross the chest and back, providing support and flexibility for women with larger busts.
A significant evolution in Vitto’s craft is her collaboration with Brazilian jewellery designer Carlos Penna, whose sleek and functional sculptural metal accents elevate the collection to new heights, allowing the water-resistant, flexible metal details to shape the garments to create a customised comfortable fit for every wearer.
The Metal Drape Boot is another highlight in the collection, blending form and function with its square cutout and Vitto’s signature metal rings elegantly framing the leg. These boots – created in collaboration with sustainable footwear designer Tabitha Ringwood, are adaptable to any calf width, embody the same spirit of inclusivity that defines Vitto’s designs, making luxury accessible and tailored to all.
Much like the tempest-tossed goddesses that she envisions, Vitto’s designs exude an ethereal yet grounded allure, showing a testament to the designer’s commitment to sustainability through the choice of environmentally friendly materials, which included a powdery pink jersey, created from PYRATEX® Seacell fabrics. Merging seaweed-based fibres from Iceland’s fjords with wood pulp, the result is luxurious as well as cooling and soothing for the skin.
With an inclusive refreshing approach to casting and a collection lending both practicality and charm, Vitto focuses on making women feel confident in their bodies and taking on the world as a storm.
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