HEADER IMAGE Backstage at Mila Sullivan SS24
This season, as many as 15 creative directors are debuting eagerly-awaited collections in the next four weeks – and the online chatter is already brimming with anticipation as familiar faces take up new roles at fashion’s most storied houses.
In New York, Simone Bellotti brings his sculptural eye to Jil Sander, Nicholas Aburn steps up at Area after a high-profile stint at Balenciaga Couture, and Brooklyn-born Rachel Scott adds a highly-anticipated new chapter to her career at Proenza Schouler, while the brand’s founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez prepare to take on a new challenge at Loewe. But for all the drama and commentary around who’s designing where this season, it’s worth remembering that there’s just as much excitement taking place outside of legacy fashion labels.
Beyond the buzz, emerging designers are taking over New York’s design roster with innovative handcraft and upcycling techniques. And while the online critics seem determined to declare “NYFW is over” (we’ve also seen similar rumours swirling about London), it’s clear that anyone saying this just hasn’t dug deep enough.
Using artisanal techniques and sustainable practices, these upcoming shows prove that New York remains a playground for discovery, risk-taking, and heritage homages. And for those paying attention, the independent and emerging voices on this season’s schedule are just as compelling as any headline-making creative director debut.
Mila Sullivan
From: San Francisco
Studied: Pratt Institute
Known For: Turning vintage textiles – everything from bed linens to curtains – into ethereal & romantic garments, with a focus on craftsmanship and upcycling.
Worn by: Lola Tung and Suki Waterhouse
Rùadh
Who: Jac Cameron
From: Glasgow, Scotland
Studied: Surrey Institute of Art and Design
Known For: Elevated denim, sustainable sourcing, and ethical production; expanding into handwoven knits and leather outerwear.
Previous experience: co-founded denim upcycled brand AYR and was previously Calvin Klein’s global denim director, as well as having roles at Abercrombie & Fitch and Madewell.
Mel Usine
Who: Stephen Biga
From: Fair Haven, New Jersey
Studied: Parsons the New School of Design
Known For: Merging mythic narratives with modern tailoring – think: lambskin boleros with a soft, armoured feel and chainmail-inspired knits.
Previous experience: Worked at Gabriela Hearst, Rodarte, and Proenza Schouler.
Heirlome
Who: Stephanie Suberville
From: Monterrey, Mexico
Studied: Parsons School of Design
Known For: The brand partners with a different craftsman every season, using their original prints as the starting point for every collection.
Accolades: By the time she graduated in 2008, Parsons had named her Womenswear Designer of the Year. After just three years, Suberville was named one of Vogue’s 25 most influential Latin designers.
Zimo
Who: Zimo Yan
From: China
Studied: Savannah College of Art and Design
Known For: Using storytelling to explore and reinterpret Asian heritage and memories through her collections.
Accolades: Won the CFDA+ Design Graduate and IDA Design Award in 2017 for her namesake collection before the official brand launch.
Dwarmis
Who: Dwarmis Concepcion
From: Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic
Studied: Parsons School of Design
Known For: Translating the vibrancy of Caribbean life into sophisticated, wearable collections.
Previous experience: Tory Burch, Ulla Johnson, and Rachel Comey, and trained under Thom Browne.
Taottao
Who: Yitao Li
From: China
Studied: Fashion Institute of Technology
Known For: Tartan, experimental styling and championing individuality.
Worn by: FKA Twigs, Halsey and Haerin from K-Pop group New Jeans.
Tyler McGillivary
From: Washington, DC
Studied: New York University’s Gallatin School of Individualised Study, where she majored in sociology, visual culture, and studio art, focusing on the psychology and impact of fashion on identity.
Known For: Playful silhouettes and vibrant motifs that cut through New York’s streamlined style, from supersized photo prints to micro-florals and nostalgic motifs.
Worn by: SZA, Amelia Dimoldenberg, Angèle, Remi Wolf, Charli XCX, Ellie Rowsell (from Wolf Alice), and Madonna.
SS26 tease: the designer has teased taking inspiration from 2006 cult chick-flick, Aquamarine, suggesting a nautical theme for her SS26 collection.
Gabe Gordon
Who: Gabe Gordon, and partner Timothy Gibbons
From: Connecticut
Studied: Rhode Island School of Design
Known For: Body-hugging and distressed knits paired with intimate hand-dyed fabrics.
Accolades: One of this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalists.
Zankov
Who: Henry Zankov
From: Ukraine
Studied: Fashion Institute of Technology
Known For: Knitwear experimentation, bold colour-blocking, and sculptural knit techniques.
Accolades: Won the Emerging Designer of the Year award at the 2024 CFDA Fashion Awards.
Diotima
Who: Rachel Scott
From: Jamaica
Studied: Istituto Marangoni in Milan
Known For: Hand-crocheted detailing, heritage craft with a subversive twist. While much of the attention she’s receiving right now is geared towards her impending start at the helm of Proenza Schouler, this season Scott is departing from her traditional presentation format, showcasing Diotima on the runway for the very first time.
Accolades: Won the American Womenswear Designer of the Year award at the 2024 CFDA Fashion Awards.
Campillo
Who: Patricio Campillo
From: Mexico City, Mexico
Studied: He earned a Bachelor’s degree in Communication and simultaneously pursued a Higher Degree in Communication and Marketing for Luxury Markets.
Known For: Taking inspiration from Charro culture, Mexican modernist architecture, and pre-Hispanic minimalism.
Accolades: In 2024, Campillo became the first Mexican designer to be shortlisted for the LVMH Prize, marking a significant milestone in his career.
SC103
Who: Sophie Andes-Gascon and Claire McKinney
From: Canada and Portland, Oregon
Studied: Pratt Institute, where the pair met and began collaborating while sharing an apartment
Known For: Blending sculptural, layered constructions with a careful attention to materials: Gascon works primarily with softer fabrics and innovative dyeing, while McKinney focuses on structured textiles and tailored forms.
SS26 tease: The brand is showing its on-schedule NYFW debut this season after several acclaimed presentations.
Meruert Tolegen
From: Kazakhstan
Studied: Self-taught – Tolegen pivoted from her scientific research career to pursue fashion design after having her daughter, initially learning to sew from her grandmother and then relying on instinct and industry connections to develop her skills. Her background in science informs her creative and innovative approach to design.
Known For: Technical mastery, innovative layering and contrasting textures.
Accolades: Another 2024 LVMH Prize semi-finalist and one of this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Finalists.
Worn by: A-List style innovators including Zendaya and Sarah Jessica Parker.
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