HEADER IMAGE KNWLS AW24 campaign
We’re halfway through the SS26 season, and yesterday morning (September 22) – as the fashion crowd began to filter out of London – Gucci decided to kick off Milan Fashion Week a day earlier than scheduled, with no invite required. Ushering in a series of major change-ups expected across the MFW schedule, the Italian fashion house wiped its Instagram clean, soft-launching Demna Gvasalia’s new era at its helm with a mini, 37-look digital collection.
Shot through picture frames and featuring characters sorted into new Gucci archetypes (from VIP to nerd, party-girl, and narcissist), the images tease Demna’s post-Balenciaga point of view ahead of a film presentation coming later this evening. In short: Demna’s Gucci seems to land somewhere between the brand’s classic high-glam, high-sex appeal style codes and Demna’s signature digital age humour (just take his character the “bastardo”, whose look consists of a plain white speedo). “He gets me,” commented one user under the look.
However, that’s not to say this week’s big fashion moments are finished. On Saturday, Bottega Veneta will unveil its first collection with Louise Trotter – currently the only woman as creative director of a Kering brand. Plus, Simone Belotti will make his debut at Jil Sander, Blumarine will present its second season under David Koma after his moody, 70s-inspired AW25 debut, Dua Lipa and Raye-favourite The Attico will showcase its third-ever annual show, and Giorgio Armani will close out the schedule with a 50th anniversary celebration show – which, coming just weeks after the legendary designer’s passing at 91-years-old, is sure to end the week on an emotional note.
Meanwhile, aside from the luxury labels that MFW is known for, this season also brings a whole new class of international and emerging talent to the city – from South London designer Charlotte Knowles’ KNWLS making its Milan debut to a multi-day pop up from sustainable label Florania, and ten BIPOC designers presenting via non-profit Afro Fashion Week.
Below, we’ve rounded up everyone you need to know about from the SS26 schedule.
KNWLS
What is it? If you’ve spent any time online in the past few years, then you’ve probably seen names like Julia Fox, Charli XCX, Richie Shazam, Caroline Polachek, or Doja Cat modelling KNWLS on your Instagram feed. The label, led by Scottish-raised, South London-based designer Charlotte Knowles and her partner Alexandre Arsenault, has taken over the wardrobes of it-girls and fashion fans for its subversive, sexy designs – you’re almost guaranteed to find a leather cut-out or ultra-low slung waistline in a KNWLS look – with couture-level technique and quality.
Why should I care? This season, KNWLS is making its Milan Fashion Week debut, where Knowles and Arsenault are set to unveil a new collaboration that’s been in the works for the past few years. “It will be interesting to see how the brand is received amongst all the big Italian houses,” the designers told WWD in July. “We really love Italy and its context in fashion history. I hope we can get everything we are planning to come together as we imagine and that we have a good impact.”
DHRUV KAPOOR
What is it? Since launching his eponymous label in 2013, Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor has taken home awards from Vogue India, GQ, and non-profit Camera della Moda. From embellished suits to slinky leather trenches and embroidered denim two-pieces, his designs clash maximalism with sharp tailoring and futuristic silhouettes.
Why should I care? Usually designing menswear, this season marks Kapoor’s first-ever slot on the womenswear schedule with a show titled “Foundations and Futures”.
FLORANIA
What is it? On top of its shredded bralettes, punky jackets, and knotted-up hooded dresses, Italian label Florania creates with social and environmental change in mind. In fact, according to the brand’s website, each piece is crafted to empower all definitions of gender, using locally-sourced, circular fabrics to make a positive impact.
Why should I care? For a break from the shows, Florania’s pop-up is running on September 24 and 25 – featuring a presentation with Camera della Moda and a live painting from artist Giovanni Morisi at Fondazione Sozzani’s “Waves” retail space.
VICTOR HART
Who is it? Ghana-raised, Bologna-based designer Victor Hart is telling the story of where he’s from via his eponymous label. “I aim to preserve my heritage and honour traditional “Made in Italy” craftsmanship,” the designer says on Instagram, showcasing his aims to transform workwear into high-quality, wearable pieces of art. “Through thoughtful design, each piece is created with longevity in mind to support greater comfort and productivity at work.” The result: denim sets, dresses, shirts, and jackets blown up to brand new proportions, splattered in military prints, and layered-up to be worn as suiting.
Why should I care? On Instagram, Hart speaks candidly about issues that emerging BIPOC designers might go through – from connecting with retailers when you don’t have an existing network to facing pay inequity. This MFW, Hart is presenting with fashion diversity non-profit Afro Fashion Week, which will host ten different BIPOC designers on the Milan schedule.
TOKYO JAMES
Who is it? At Nigerian label Tokyo James, gowns come dripping in crystals, ultra-mini dresses are puffed up and sequinned, and leather jackets are woven in two-tones – all completed with chunky, stone and crystal jewellery from the brand’s Ęwa accessories collection. Founded by Iniye Tokyo James, the brand seeks to document human behaviour and interaction through modern luxury designs.
Why should I care? Following a few seasons presenting collections at MFW through livestream, Tokyo James will present IRL this time around via Afro Fashion Week.
PHAN DANG HOANG
Who are they? Forbes Asia 30 under 30 winner Phan Dang Hoang studied in Milan before returning home to Vietnam to launch his label. Through his collections, the designer combines Asian and western influences, resulting in fantasy-worthy oversized shapes that curl away from the body, one-of-a-kind textiles hand-dyed with natural colouring, and silk gowns that swing from its wearers’ waist.
Why should I care? Also presenting with Afro Fashion Week, this season marks the designer’s sophomore show in Milan.
NADYA DZYAK
Who are they? At Ukrainian label Nadya Dzyak, clothing is all about shape, form, and femininity. In fact, one scroll of the label’s Instagram shows mini dresses that ruffle like jellyfish; lacy lingerie that clings to the body; sheer maxi dresses bedecked in giant, spiralling rosettes; stacked up Carrie-Bradshaw-style tutu skirts expertly draped over a mannequin; and translucent tops with pleats curling across the shoulder – all serving as a dedication to Ukrainian craftsmanship and style.
Why should I care? Although the brand was founded in 2008, Nadya Dzyak is moving over to Milan for the first time this season after showing previously in London.
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