Designer in Focus: Pernille Kruger

Name: Pernille Kruger
Age: 25
Based in Copenhagen, Denmark

How would you best sum up the aesthetic of KRÜGER and specifically your AW16 collection, Plasma?

Plasma is a line of low-key, high-end, active street fashion with a detailed focus on technical materials and craftsmanship.

How do you think your work sets itself apart from what you’ve been seeing from other designers so far in 2016?
I don’t really look into other designers. I think it’s important not to compare or rate yourself next to others too much. But in terms of the line, we are bringing something different by incorporating futuristic, hip-hop, streetwear, and night scene influences into our collection. We are also working with trims – instead of hiding them away, we are bringing them forward as part of the design. I’m focused on choosing the materials and taking the technicality of the design to a new level, by combining classical fabrics such as wool and fusing them with more nuanced materials such as mesh and reflective materials. I’m also taking a lot of references from working-wear industries.

What was the inspiration behind this collection?
A lot of the branding of the collection is based on my past experience networking in the Danish music industry. The aesthetic contains a lot of references to the hip-hop/rap industry, as I was originally asked to make stage clothes for music artists. That’s the dream: to make clothing for music performances, videos and the red carpet. The brand is focused on the music industry, but also reflects styles from the outer streets of Paris and London—those kind of rough areas, and kids with little money who always manage to dress cool.\

Creativity is integrated into way we think: we’ve been brought up to know that it’s okay to live creatively.

What role do you think Scandinavian/Danish design occupies in the global fashion industry? Have you noticed a progression/increased integration of Danish designers in mainstream elite fashion industry in recent years?

There is no doubt that Scandinavian design is developing and increasing. Danish design has always been advanced — jewels, furniture, clothing… all industries, but it’s been growing insanely in the last three years. There is a lot of talent in Denmark. Creativity is integrated into way we think: we’ve been brought up to know that it’s okay to live creatively. As Denmark has developed internationally, people have become more curious, and want to see if there’s more. Everyone wants to be the first ones to find and develop these new talents. Recently, we’ve seen a lot of people turning their faces towards Copenhagen. There’s definitely more international press coming here with events like Fashion Week. Denmark has also put in a lot of money into jewels, shoes and clothing design, into funding events like Copenhagen fashion week, and into the film scene and music industry. Even though there is a lack of jobs in some creative fields, the government is supporting new innovators by investing in emerging artists, and trying to keep us in Denmark. Emerging designers have access to a good support system here, with a lot of good press and talent developing. We as Danes are very lucky at that point, in that our country supports creative pursuits, but at the same time it’s not a big giveaway—there aren’t any money trees around here!

What direction do you see your designs taking in the future?  
The brand was founded just last summer, so it’s really new. Right now I see the potential of creating a bigger, stronger brand for next season. That’s what I’m aiming for. We only presented a small collection at this fashion week. I’m hoping that in time we will go international. Ultimately, I want to live from my designs and be happy. I don’t need to be a millionaire!